September 13, 2006

Musical Colors

South Africa

I've always found South African music appealing. Not that I have listened to that much. But I have been quite impressed by the ones I've listened to, particularly those that retain a traditional touch. Whether it is Yvonne Chaka Chaka's Umqombothi—which was undoubtedly one of the most popular songs on the African continent in the late 1980s—or Ladysmith Black Mambazo's exquisite vocals, there is something about music from that part of the world that captivates me.

My friend is South African and a Zulu. He takes a great deal of pride in being a descendant of ancient warriors. His Zulu identity comes first, and not even his Roman Catholic faith prevents him from publicly professing a strong belief in polygamy. He was pleased to know that my Nigerio-centric education had exposed me to the "great" Shaka the Zulu, but was shocked on hearing that I knew nothing about the Battle of Isandlwana. "You know we defeated the British?" he said as he recounted what happened in 1879 as though he was there.

It was from this friend that I first got to listen to music by Ladysmith Black Mambazo some years back. But what I really found fascinating was how, to him at least, there was more to music than met the ear. "Asimbonanga: No, white South Africans won't listen to that." "Shosholoza? Everyone loves this song. Both blacks and whites sing it when we go watching football. You know I like Ladysmith Black Mambazo very much—even the white guy that sang with them. I like him."

The "white guy", I later got to learn, was Paul Simon who first shot Ladysmith Black Mambazo to international fame. My South African Zulu friend never hid the fact that he disliked South Africans of Caucasian stock—not as individuals, but as a group. I never agreed with the reasons he gave for disliking them but then, unlike him, I had been raised in and shaped by a totally different environment.

Helmut Lotti, whom I initially thought was South African, sings very well. His rendition of the Nkosi Sikelel' iAfrika with a backup choir is about the best I've heard. But in the opinion of an Afrikaner South African friend of mine, Lotti had a peculiar way of spoiling "their" South African music be it Sarie marais or Umakoti. "Lotti isn't a South African. Why on earth did you think he was?" she said. Well, he still sings brilliantly.

South Africa is, to the best of my knowledge, the only country in the world where one needs to understand five languages in order to sing and fully comprehend its national anthem. Until a few days ago, I often thought that the South African anthem was a mixture of Nkosi Sikelel' iAfrika in Xhosa or Zulu and Die Stem van Suid Afrika in Afrikaans. I once asked my South African Zulu friend "In what language is Nkosi Sikelel' iAfrika written and sung?" "Xhosa and Zulu" he replied.

According to Wikipedia, the official South African national anthem, which borrows from both Nkosi Sikelel' iAfrika and Die Stem comprises of five languages: Xhosa, Zulu, Sesotho, Afrikaans and English. I wonder for how long it could remain this way. If it does last for a hundred years, then South Africa could indeed teach something to the rest of the world: birds of not so much a feather can still flock together. And in so doing, they become one flock.

UPDATE (Sept 24, 2006): I came across this version of the South African anthem on YouTube. It is sung in five languages. Observe the change of key when the choir switches from Sesotho to Afrikaans.

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11 Comments:

Nice post. I also find some South African music appealing and coincidentally, I'm presently listening to Brenda Fassie. I also have deep appreciation for the South African national anthem. It's deep.

Indeed, South Africa could teach a lot of things but I am truly not sure about the birds becoming one flock. Like your Zulu friend, I was close to harbouring strong dislike for South Africans of Caucasian stock. In fact, I once threatened to throttle one for daring to utter expletives at my mother and I because of our colour. If one lives in that country for an extended period of time, especially in a place like Cape Town, it's easy to go down the road of racial hatred.
Posted by Blogger ayoke at September 13, 2006 7:57 PM  
Strange ... I've never met a White South African in person I've ever truly liked. Don't ask me why, I just know every single one of them has been a right bastard. I may have to start hanging out with a better class of people, I think.

Anyway, I love South African music (and early postage stamps actually!) and was especially fond of Yvonne Chaka Chaka when I lived in Nigeria as a child.

To listen to South Africans in the diaspora, things are not that great at home, so I'm not too sure about the flocking ...

Nice blog.
Posted by Blogger Fred at September 14, 2006 11:04 PM  
To Ayoke and Fred, most South Africans, black and white, think all Nigerians are either gangsters, criminals, pimps or drug dealers, so its pretty easy to see why you didn't get a welcome reception, then again, judging by your bigotted views you carry a large chip on your shoulder and we South Africans don't really appreciate that.
Posted by Anonymous Dave at September 15, 2006 9:36 AM  
Ayoke:

Brenda Fassie and her powerful and attractive voice. A pity her life turned upside down, leading to her early death.

I have never been to Cape Town and thus can't comment about it. However, I'd be deeply surprised and shocked if overt racial discrimination still happens to be the norm in a city that prides itself as the most beautiful on the African continent, and one that is all-too-eager to cash in on tourist dollars.
Posted by Blogger Chippla Vandu at September 15, 2006 2:59 PM  
Fred:

Thanks for your comment. I happen to have schooled with a number of "white" (and also "black" and "Indian") South Africans and must say I found most of them very easy going. They were, in general, very sociable and easy to get along with—I still keep in touch with two of them. In most cases, it was quite easy distinguishing the whites that had Afrikaans as their mother tongue form the white English South Africans.

I must say that the typical "white" South African may not exist because a number of times I heard some rather stereotypical and derogatory remarks made of the Afrikaners by some of the white English South Africans.

People in the diaspora often tend to view things from a negative point of view, particularly if they happen to live in more industrialized countries. Yes, the rate of crime is very high in South Africa. But this needs to be put in the context of the country's recent social policies. Since you once lived in Nigeria, you may also know that the rate of crime there increased tremendously after the end of military dictatorial rule.

The South African economy is booming, growing at between 4% and 5% per annum. These are real growth figures and not the nonsensical 10% per annum propaganda growth rate that the Nigerian government often publishes in regard to Nigeria's economic growth.

South Africa's fiscal policy is very sound thanks to Trevor Manuel (the Minister of Finance). Were Trevor Manuel a Nigerian, he would likely have been humiliated out of office as was Ngozi Okonjo-Iweala. The South African Rand has appreciated significantly against the dollar and euro in the past six years—though I must say that the Rand happens to be one of the most unstable currencies in the world, fluctuating every now and then. But think of the large number of FOREX traders in Johannesburg who must have built a fortune out of the fluctuating Rand!

I could go on and on. Of course, South Africa has a long way to go. However I am more optimistic about its short-term future than Nigeria's.
Posted by Blogger Chippla Vandu at September 15, 2006 3:26 PM  
Dave:

"...most South Africans, black and white, think all Nigerians are either gangsters, criminals, pimps or drug dealers, so its pretty easy to see why you didn't get a welcome reception..."

Ouch. It seems the re-branding Nigeria campaign should be heading south soon.
Posted by Blogger Chippla Vandu at September 15, 2006 3:32 PM  
To Dave:

Unfortunately, the forum wasn't even about being Nigerian or not. It’s about skin colour, about two women walking on a road and a white person shouting as they walked (it really happened). Nobody asks if you're Nigerian (if you think that is what it was about). It's about entering into a shop to buy something and a fellow shopper asking if you're the shop girl and when you look at her in the face and say “I’m not. Are you?”, she seems baffled that you could dare ask if she’s a shop girl. It's about a white neighbour knocking on your door in Brackenfell to ask if you (a black father) can send your children to come mow her lawn - apparently she was blind to the fact that she lived in a flat across and you live in a fenced house and would not need her cents. Dave, you are the white South African with a chip on your shoulder and if you think deeply, you'll realise the racial issues you have. The post wasn't about Nigerians in South Africa. It was about the racial divide that you know about. Stop arguing ad hominem. Face the issue.
Posted by Blogger ayoke at September 16, 2006 1:08 PM  
Brenda Fassie, yes! But I love love love the Soweto gospel choir- they came to my university town and sang me and rest of the (mostly white) audience into love with them. But love of the Soweto gospel choir was a dumb reason to go to South Africa and try to stay three months. I lasted just a month, then fled home. I knew people would be racist towards me in Cape Town, but I must've been crazy to think that racism was in any way a 'tresting experience. Afrikaans accents make me nervous. And I found that most of the black people I met in CT a) pointedly spoke English, Xhosa or Zulu (I forgot that my beloved Soweto Choir boied off Afrikaans too) and b) were upsettingly stiff and ambivalent towards me...and seemed more relieved to see white people...
...I don't know what to make of it. I know it's off-topic now (I'm sorry) but what do you make of it? Someone on a radio show called it 'self loathing'. I don't expect black people everywhere to fall over themselves to give me a squeeze just because I'm black. Still....
Posted by Blogger mademoiselle sand at September 16, 2006 2:00 PM  
I do not know very much about South Africa at all, but like you I do very much like the music. I also agree with you that the white English South Africans are probably quite different from the Afrikaaners, who I understand to have strong racist views and condemn intermarriage. There is a great white South African musician who I was fortunate to see perform, Johnny Clegg.
Posted by Blogger Don Thieme at September 16, 2006 5:13 PM  
I'm a white American, but I did not enjoy being around white South Africans when I lived in SA. Can't put my finger exactly on what it was though. We just didn't mesh well.
Posted by Anonymous clay at September 17, 2006 3:03 AM  
To dave,

Most Nigerians (Yoruba, Hausa, Igbo or otherwise) think South Africans are all HIV positive, baby-raping, gun-waving, mass-murdering, farmer-killing people.

Chill with the hate. I hear hate and HIV are a dangerous cocktail...!
Posted by Anonymous Anonymous at October 16, 2006 8:24 PM  

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